[oregon-l] a do it yourself IPad project
cheree at dogsc4me.com
Tue Sep 7 13:11:37 GMT 2010
Cheree Heppe here:
I guess you could say that you took a bite out of your reading material.
Just pick a really slushy book.
----- Original Message -----
To: ACB of Oregon Discussion list
Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 10:10 PM
Subject: Re: [oregon-l] a do it yourself IPad project
This seems like a very destructive process to the poor book. Reading this made me cringe a bit.
On Mon, Sep 6, 2010 at 2:40 PM, Cheree Heppe <cheree at dogsc4me.com> wrote:
Cheree Heppe here:
This hollow book idea could be used for a number of creative purposes. The outline on how one IPad user made a personalized IPad case from a used book is below.
I think we could manage this pretty well with a bit of attention to details.
. As I mentioned, I documented the process and now I’m here to post the guide in
case anyone else is interested in making their very own. There is definitely more
than one way to make a book safe, and if you have more appropriate tools, feel free
to improvise. The methods I selected were based on low cost and simplicity and will
at lease give you a good idea of the process. Let’s get started.
Project cost: approx. $10
Project time: this project can be completed in a single day, but you’ll definitely
want to set aside a large chunk of time for page cutting (might want to grab your
headphones for some music!)
A fitting book
Precision knife (Xacto, packaging knife, etc.)
Patience (quite a bit of it)
Tips for book selection:
Local bookstores (or thrift shops) are likely to have very inexpensive used books. The one I used was $2. I bought three books of varying sizes to be sure I got the fit I wanted. I used one book as a practice first before doing the final one (lots of cutting!). I took
my iPad to the store to size up several books.
Things you want to look for in the book –
, be sure that there are enough pages in the book that your iPad will fit all the
way in. This is probably the toughest part of the selection process because it can
be hard to judge. You may wish to measure how high your iPad stands off of a flat
surface before going to the book store, then find a book with page width that is
equally or slightly deeper than the measured value. Be sure that the book has enough padding around your iPad. That is, make sure that when you cut out the shape, the resulting thickness of the pages is enough to support your iPad and withstand a fairly intensive cutting process. You don’t want to try cutting the shape out with, say, 0.2” of padding, you’ll likely rip some pages during the process. There is about 0.75” of padding
in my final iBook.
Remove the cover of the book (if it has one) and center the iPad face-down inside
the cover. (I am not clear here whether this author means to take the cover totally off, or fold it out of the way. Since I prefer the cover on, I would opt to fold instead of remove.)
Use the pencil to trace an outline, you should hold the pencil perpendicular
to the paper so that the side of the pencil pushes against the side of the iPad as
you trace. The distance from the side of the pencil/iPad to the tip leaves a good
buffer in your outline and subsequent cut to ensure a good fit. If you cut it a little
too big you can always add spacers to increase the tightness, but if you cut it too
small, you’ll have a hard time figuring out how to re-cut all of the pages…. (Note
that the volume rocker and hold switch will be on the opposite side when the iPad
is face-up in the finished product, cutting around them specifically would be too
tedious, this is what the buffer is for.)
You want your first several cuts to follow the rounded shape of the iPad’s corners.
I’d recommend cutting the rounded corners for 10-20 pages. After that you’ll be cutting
square corners (much easier!), but the top pages will give it a round corner look,
which will give a more custom-fit appearance. Use your knife to begin cutting on
your outline. I pressed very firmly with my knife to cut through several pages at
once, then pulled them out until I needed to cut again (early enough that I could
still see previous cut marks and knew where to cut). Finding the right number of
pages to cut through and pull out before making more cuts its probably the most challenging
part of this project. Just make your cuts carefully and eventually you’ll get into
a rhythm. Don’t forget to square your corners after the first 10 or 20 pages and
continue to cut them that way. Square corners are much easier to cut than the rounded ones. I used a paper clip to keep part of the cut
pages closest to the binding out of my way while I continued to cut. They don’t like
to fold back with the rest of the page because most of their support has been cut out!
While cutting, do occasional test fits to ensure that the cuts are coming out properly.
If you aren’t through too many pages, put the iPad in face-down to get the best idea
of how it will fit (the rounded back makes this deceiving when it is face-up and
you don’t yet have a lot of depth.) Finding that you are having fitting problems
would be much better in the first 30 pages then after 200 cuts! As long as you were
careful with your outline (and added an appropriate buffer) and keep the cuts consistent,
you shouldn’t have an issue.
One thing to look out for. The more pages you cut and
fold back, the further the subsequent pages will be pulled toward the binding (slowly
misaligning the top cut from each one underneath). If you don’t correct for this,
your page cuts will have a distinct diagonal shape on the left and right. You can
adjust for this by slowly moving your cuts to the right to keep them in the same
relative position as the first cut (be sure to do this on the left and right sides
of the cut.)
Once you’ve cut deep enough to fully fit the iPad, you are going to use your tape
to hold the pages in their closed-book positions. The first thing you want to do
is to hold the cover of the book at a 90 degree angle (or prop it against something)
while you use scotch take to make small wraps around the pages. In the picture above,
I colored on the tape with sharpie so it could be easily seen. I picked up the whole
of the pages and slid a piece of scotch under them to begin, then set them down and
wrapped it around the outside to the top (do this for each piece of tape applied.)
I folded the tape back on itself at the end to make a non-sticky tab that I could
use to grip to remove the tape easily.
When you are satisfied with the way the pages are being held, flip open the back
cover and apply rubber cement to the back of the very last page (yes, over top of
the tape). Once it is covered all the way around, close the back cover, flip the
book over, and open the front cover. Begin applying rubber cement quite liberally
around the inside surface of the page cuts. Close the cover and rest some weights
on top of the book for at least an hour while it dries. When you return, remove the
tape (it’s glued in the bottom cover, you can cut it, or it’ll rip pretty easily.)
Once the back cover and inside has been glued, flip the book face-down and slide
a piece of paper or two between the block of pages and the front cover of the book
to protect the cover and create a shelf for the rubber cement to rest on while you
glue around the outside of the page block. Don’t worry about getting glue against
the back cover as its already glued down to the pages!
Once you’ve got it all glued up you should rest some weight (other books work well)
on top of it to keep everything firmly pressed down as the adhesive dries. After
a few hours of drying you can remove the weights and open up the front cover to allow
the inside adhesive to air out and dry. Depending on how tightly your fit turned
out, you may choose to add the bookmark/tab piece to assist in removing it from the
Enjoy your iBook case.
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